Define the coat design requirements
Identify the coat length, size range, lining plan, collar shape and intended season. Explain whether the design needs a firm outline or a fluid drape. Include a drawing and a reference garment where available. Ask the garment team which decisions remain open. A fabric selected for an unlined, two-sided coat may not answer the requirements of a lined tailored coat.
Compare fibre content and fabric structure
Request the proposed fibre percentages and how the fabric is constructed and finished. Pure wool and wool blends should be compared on the intended garment outcome, rather than treating composition as a performance guarantee. Separate a smooth compact cloth, a raised surface and a textured weave in your shortlist. Verify any cashmere, recycled-content or certification claim against evidence for the actual proposal.
Check weight and usable width
Record finished weight in grams per square metre and usable width, excluding unusable edges. Weight helps describe the proposal but does not prove warmth or drape. Evaluate these on the sample and garment. Ask the cutting team to check the actual size mix, pockets, belt and surface direction at the available width. A wider quotation may still need a less efficient layout.
Trial the collar, seams and hem
Request enough representative fabric to trial the collar, main seam, pocket opening, hem and pressing sequence. For a double-faced proposal, check the construction before planning a split-and-fold edge: two attractive faces do not prove that the layers can be separated for that method. Record seam bulk, surface marking, shape after pressing and the appearance on both sides. Photograph each finding beside its sample code.
Compare the same evidence for every proposal
Give each candidate a row containing the fabric code, revision, composition, weight, usable width, colour reference, trial findings and unresolved questions. Label a measured result differently from a buyer target or supplier statement. Compare relevant pilling, abrasion, shade and dimensional evidence on the agreed basis. Do not average unrelated test grades into a single quality score that hides a failed requirement.
Example: decide what the next sample must solve
Suppose candidate A gives the preferred handfeel but the trial collar loses its intended shape, while candidate B holds the shape and needs a handfeel revision. The next decision is to test a revised A construction or a revised B finish, rather than approve A only from the swatch. Keep the revision identity with every further trial so its outcome cannot be attached to an earlier fabric.
Prepare a supplier sampling request
Send the coat brief, preferred and unacceptable sample attributes, target quantity with its unit, colour count, required evidence, destination and required decision dates. Ask which proposals can be sampled, which production assumptions need confirmation and what each quotation includes. Fred Textile’s collection pages can help identify fabric directions to discuss; the current sample, commercial terms and production availability still need confirmation.
Approve the fabric and record unresolved issues
Before bulk, reconcile the accepted fabric revision, garment-trial outcome, colour standard and specification. Record who can approve a change in composition, width, finish or construction. If a required issue remains unresolved, hold that decision or request an alternative. Keep the approval scope specific to this project rather than assuming the same fabric suits every coat.
Prepare the next decision
| Input | Decision to make | Record to keep |
|---|---|---|
| Coat design | Lined or unlined; silhouette and size mix | Garment brief and drawing |
| Fabric identity | Composition, construction and finished state | Sample code and revision |
| Cutting basis | Usable width and surface direction | Trial cutting layout |
| Making trial | Collar, seams, hem and pressing reviewed | Trial photos and observations |
| Release | Accepted standard and unresolved requirements | Named approval and change record |
Questions for this stage
What wool percentage is best for a coat?
There is no universal percentage for every coat. Compare the finished fabric, garment construction, intended care and relevant test evidence. Keep the declared composition as a separate requirement.
Can grams per square metre tell me how warm the coat will be?
Weight alone is insufficient. Fabric structure and the complete garment, including lining and fit, affect the outcome. Use a representative coat trial and agree any required thermal assessment.
Is double-faced wool always suitable for an unlined coat?
Assess both faces and the intended seam and edge method. A two-sided appearance does not establish that the particular fabric can support a split-edge construction.
Can I choose from photos without trial metreage?
Photos help shortlist colour and surface direction. They cannot establish drape, handfeel, seam bulk or pressing behaviour. Obtain representative physical material for those decisions.
What should I send before requesting a production quotation?
Send the fabric or garment reference, intended coat construction, quantities and units, colour needs, evidence requirements and unresolved choices. A clear brief makes alternative proposals easier to compare.